The Heartbeat of the Hunter

Nestled within the larger Hunter Valley Wine Region, the Pokolbin sub-region stands as its pulsating heart. Renowned for its picturesque landscapes, historic vineyards, and world-class wines, Pokolbin is the most iconic and widely recognised area within the Hunter Valley. This sub-region, along with its notable areas of Lovedale and Mount View, forms the core of Hunter Valley’s winemaking reputation, producing some of the most esteemed wines in Australia.

In this article, we’ll explore the rich history of Pokolbin, its distinct climate, diverse soils, and the grape varietals that flourish in this celebrated sub-region. We’ll also delve into the stories of the pioneering families and modern-day winemakers who have shaped Pokolbin’s identity, as well as the unique characteristics of Lovedale and Mount View, which contribute to the sub-region's diverse wine offerings.

A Rich History Steeped in Tradition

Pokolbin’s history as a wine-producing area dates back to the early 19th century, when European settlers recognised the potential of the region’s fertile soils and favourable climate. The first vineyards in Pokolbin were planted in the 1820s and 1830s, marking the beginning of a viticultural tradition that would span centuries.

Among the earliest pioneers was George Wyndham, who established Dalwood Estate (subsequently known as Wyndham Estate until its closure in 2014 and once again known as Dalwood Estate after it reopened in 2018) in 1828. Wyndham’s efforts in viticulture were instrumental in laying the foundation for winemaking in Pokolbin and the broader Hunter Valley. His legacy lives on in the region’s continued production of high-quality wines.

As the 19th century progressed, other families, such as the Tyrrells and the Draytons, also began to establish vineyards in the area. The Tyrrell family, in particular, has played a significant role in the development of Pokolbin’s winemaking industry. Founded in 1858, Tyrrell's Wines has remained family-owned for over 160 years, with each generation contributing to the estate’s reputation for excellence. Today, Tyrrell’s is celebrated for its exceptional Semillon and Shiraz, wines that are synonymous with the Pokolbin sub-region.

Pokolbin is home to some of the oldest vines in Australia. Tyrrell's Old Patch Vineyard, for example, is home to Shiraz vines planted in 1867, which are still producing fruit today.

The 20th century saw Pokolbin’s wine industry grow and evolve, with an increasing focus on quality and innovation. The establishment of the Hunter Valley Research Station in the 1960s helped to advance viticultural practices, ensuring that Pokolbin remained at the forefront of Australian winemaking. Today, the sub-region is home to some of the country’s most prestigious wineries, attracting visitors from around the world who come to experience its wines and picturesque scenery.

The Art of Balance

Pokolbin’s climate is a key factor in the distinctiveness of its wines. The sub-region is characterised by a warm temperate climate, with hot, humid summers and mild winters. This climate, while challenging, is instrumental in shaping the unique style of wines produced in Pokolbin.

Summers in Pokolbin are typically hot, with temperatures often reaching into the mid-30s Celsius. This heat, combined with the region’s humidity, can pose significant challenges for viticulture, particularly in terms of disease pressure. However, Pokolbin’s winemakers have developed a range of strategies to manage these conditions, ensuring that the grapes reach optimal ripeness without succumbing to disease.

One of the key moderating factors in Pokolbin’s climate is its proximity to the Brokenback Range, which forms a natural barrier to the west. The range helps to shield the vineyards from the harshest weather conditions, creating a microclimate that is more temperate than the surrounding areas. Additionally, the gentle slopes of the range provide varying exposures to sunlight, allowing winemakers to cultivate grapes with a range of flavour profiles.

Another important climatic feature is the afternoon breeze that sweeps through the valley, cooling the vineyards and reducing the risk of heat stress on the vines. This breeze, known locally as "The Doctor," plays a crucial role in maintaining the health of the vines during the hot summer months.

A Patchwork of Terroirs

The diversity of soils in Pokolbin is one of the sub-region’s most defining characteristics. The area’s complex geology has resulted in a patchwork of soil types, each contributing to the unique terroir of Pokolbin’s vineyards.

In the valley floor, deep, fertile alluvial soils dominate. These soils, composed of clay, sand, and loam, are particularly well-suited to the cultivation of Semillon. The alluvial soils retain moisture well, allowing the vines to thrive even in the heat of summer. This results in Semillon wines that are crisp and lively in their youth, with the potential to develop into complex, honeyed expressions over time.

Moving up the slopes of the Brokenback Range, the soils become more varied. Red volcanic loams, known locally as "terra rossa," are found on the mid-slopes, providing excellent drainage and reducing vine vigour. These soils are ideal for Shiraz, producing wines with concentrated flavours and fine tannins. The well-drained soils encourage the vines to produce smaller berries with thicker skins, resulting in wines that are rich, structured, and capable of aging gracefully.

In the higher elevations of Mount View and Lovedale, the soils are lighter and more sandy, contributing to the distinctive characteristics of the wines produced in these areas. The cooler temperatures and increased exposure to sunlight in these elevated sites result in grapes with higher acidity and more nuanced flavours. Wines from Mount View, in particular, are known for their elegance and finesse, while those from Lovedale often display vibrant fruit characteristics and a refreshing minerality.

Grape Varietals and Winemaking Techniques

Pokolbin is most famous for its Semillon and Shiraz, but the sub-region’s diversity of soils and microclimates also supports a range of other grape varietals. Each varietal, shaped by the unique conditions of its vineyard site, contributes to the rich tapestry of wines produced in Pokolbin.

Semillon is perhaps the most iconic of Pokolbin’s wines. The region’s Semillon is often harvested early, resulting in wines with low alcohol, high acidity, and delicate citrus flavours. While these wines are refreshing and enjoyable in their youth, they truly shine with age. Over time, Pokolbin Semillon develops complex flavours of honey, toast, and nuts, all while maintaining its vibrant acidity.

Shiraz from Pokolbin is distinct from the more robust expressions found in regions like the Barossa Valley. Here, Shiraz tends to be medium-bodied, with a focus on elegance and balance. The wines often exhibit savoury, earthy notes alongside dark fruit flavours, with a fine tannin structure that lends itself to aging.

In addition to Semillon and Shiraz, Chardonnay is another important varietal in Pokolbin. The region produces a range of Chardonnay styles, from crisp, unoaked wines to richer, barrel-fermented expressions. The cooler sites in Mount View are particularly well-suited to Chardonnay, producing wines with bright acidity and complex flavours.

Verdelho has also found a home in Pokolbin, where it produces vibrant, fruit-driven wines. This Portuguese varietal is well-suited to the warm climate of the region, resulting in wines with tropical fruit flavours and a refreshing acidity. Verdelho is often enjoyed young, as a lively, easy-drinking wine.

Winemaking in Pokolbin is marked by a respect for tradition, combined with a willingness to innovate. Many winemakers continue to use traditional techniques, such as basket pressing and open fermentation, while also embracing modern technology to improve quality and consistency. The use of French and American oak barrels is common for aging, with winemakers carefully selecting barrels to complement the characteristics of each wine.

Unique Expressions of Pokolbin

While Pokolbin is the best-known area within the sub-region, Lovedale and Mount View each offer their own unique contributions to the region’s wine identity.

Lovedale is located to the east of Pokolbin and is renowned for its focus on high-quality Semillon and Chardonnay. The sandy, well-drained soils of Lovedale, combined with the area’s slightly cooler climate, produce wines with bright acidity and refined flavours. Lovedale Semillon, in particular, is highly regarded for its ability to age gracefully, developing complex secondary characteristics while retaining its fresh citrus notes.

Each May, the Lovedale area hosts the "Lovedale Long Lunch," a progressive-style lunch event that takes place across several wineries. It’s a celebration of the region’s food, wine, and hospitality, attracting thousands of visitors each year.

Mount View, situated to the southwest of Pokolbin, is one of the Hunter Valley’s most picturesque areas. The elevated vineyards of Mount View benefit from cooler temperatures and increased sunlight, resulting in wines with great finesse and balance. Mount View is particularly known for its Chardonnay and Shiraz, which are prized for their elegance and depth of flavour. The steep slopes and diverse soils of Mount View allow winemakers to produce wines that truly reflect the terroir, with each vineyard site offering a unique expression of the varietals grown there.

Guardians of Tradition and Innovation

Pokolbin’s winemaking legacy is deeply intertwined with the stories of the families who have cultivated the land for generations. These families have not only preserved the traditions of the region but have also driven innovation, ensuring that Pokolbin remains at the forefront of Australian winemaking.

The Tyrrell family, as mentioned earlier, is one of the most influential in the region. Their commitment to quality and innovation has helped to define the style of Pokolbin wines, particularly with their iconic Semillon and Shiraz. Tyrrell's Wines continues to be a leader in the region, with a focus on producing wines that reflect the unique terroir of their vineyards.

An iconic gum tree that stands near Tyrrell’s Wines has become a symbol of the Hunter Valley. It has been featured on the labels of many of the region’s wines and is a popular spot for visitors to take photos.

Another key family in the region is the Drayton family, who have been making wine in Pokolbin for over 150 years. The Draytons are known for their dedication to traditional winemaking practices, while also embracing modern techniques to enhance the quality of their wines. Their estate, Drayton’s Family Wines, is one of the oldest in the Hunter Valley and continues to produce a wide range of varietals, including Semillon, Shiraz, and Verdelho.

In addition to these historic families, Pokolbin is also home to a new generation of winemakers who are bringing fresh perspectives to the region. These modern pioneers are experimenting with new varietals, sustainable practices, and innovative winemaking techniques, all while respecting the rich heritage of Pokolbin.

In Summary

Pokolbin is more than just a sub-region; it is the beating heart of the Hunter Valley, embodying the rich history, diverse terroir, and pioneering spirit that define the region. From the fertile soils of the valley floor to the elevated vineyards of Mount View, Pokolbin offers a unique and varied landscape that produces some of Australia’s most celebrated wines. As we continue our journey through the Hunter Valley, the next article will take us to the Broke Fordwich sub-region, where we will explore a different facet of this remarkable wine region.